Trim Jacquard

Gucci Men’s Show 2010

This season, Gucci does not punctuate sex any more. Putting creativity and craftsmanship into clothes are for real is Frida Giannini’s principle. Just like what Tomas Maier said, this is not a time to dumb down- it is a time to give men things that have good design and are better made- and you have to excite them.

Frida Giannini got the inspiration from Oscar Niemeyer and translated their modernity into slim suits in white cotton jacquards and piques, then furnished those with vintage Seventies patterns on shirts and ties. It becomes an energetic sportiness, with references to scuba and kite surfing in leggings and parkas that collaged nylon, cotton, Aertex, and leather.

For instance, the white cotton jacquard suits that opened the show, paired with bright kilim-patterned shirts and pebble-soled more-moc-than-loafers, were so true to Giannini’s own fantasy of stylish young people at play that they oozes their own type of integrity. Likewise the lean, mean evening suits in a midnight silk jacquard that gleamed like sharkskin. They made Frida world look like fun.

Most of the Gucci bling had been swept out to sea, leaving just glinting zippers and snaps. As a counterpoint to this high-tech athleticism, handmade intarsia sweaters featured folkloric patterns, magnified to graphic effect. The patterns extended into evening suits, with shimmery trims or in glossy silk prints and jacquards. Giannini banished ties for evening. Even exotic leather goods looked more casual. Crocodile and python skins were processed for a matte, rubbery texture. Classic loafers ceded the floor to less formal driving moccasins and high-top sneakers. In sum, the collection was a restrained vision of the good life, but still showed the Gucci man a groovy, good time.

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